The influence of enzymatic pretreatment on apparel design

  • Bagaric, Petra
  • Canal Arias, José María
  • Grgic, Katia
  • Tarbuk, Anita
Enzymatic processing contributes to a better touch and comfort of knitted fabrics. Therefore, in this paper, the influence of pretreatment time to process efficiency was researched. After pretreatment, few creations were designed from such knitted fabric as a material for lightweight jacket, coat or poncho. Models were created with an inspiration for everyday clothes, for different occasions and all generations. For the purpose of researching the influence of process parameters to the scouring efficiency, raw cotton knitted fabric was thoroughly washed, bio-scoured with neutral pectinase, alkali scoured, chemically bleached with hydrogen peroxide, and dyed with basic green dyestuff. The efficiency was monitored through the degree of polymerization, hydrophilicity, whiteness degree, fabric hand and depth in color. Enzimatske obrade pletiva doprinose boljem opipu i udobnosti, te je u ovom radu istražen utjecaj predobrade na ucinkovitost naknadnih procesa. Nakon predobrade osmišljeno je nekoliko kreacija iz predobradenog i oplemenjenog pletiva kao materijala prikladnog za izradu gornjih odjevnih predmeta. Modeli su nastali kao inspiracija za jednostavne odjevne predmete, koji su mogu koristiti za svaki dan, za razlicite prigode i za razlicite generacijske uzraste. U svrhu istraživanja utjecaja procesnih parametara u iskuhavanju, sirovo pamucno pletivo je temeljito oprano, bio-iskuhano neutralnom pektinazom, alkalno iskuhano, kemijski bijeljeno vodikovim peroksidom, te bojadisano baznim bojilom zelenog tona. Ucinci iskuhavanja su praceni kroz stupanj polimerizacije, hidrofilnost, stupanj bjeline, opip te dubinu obojenja